My last post covered the first part of my November 2018 trip to the Baltic states of Riga, Latvia & Tallinn, Estonia. After two full days exploring the small city of Riga, it was time to move on to Tallinn.
RIGA TO TALLIN
To get from Riga to Tallinn, we took the LuxExpress Bus A cab brought us from the hotel to the Tallinn Coach Station where it was simple to find our 7:00 AM bus. By 11:25 we arrived in Tallinn and were able to use Uber to bring us to our next hotel! Super simple for only a 21 Euro bus ride. While the Hestia Hotel Illmarine wasn’t quite as regal as our Riga residences, it was very conveniently located to Old Town and we had no complains (especially at under $70 a night!)
WALKING TOUR
Tallinn is where I went from, “I don’t like tours” to “You should 100% go on a walking tour in every city you go to.” We showed up to a free walking tour on our last day and it was the best decision (thanks Sam!)
We learned so much about Estonia – and while just walking around eating and drinking and taking pictures of pretty buildings is fun – learning something about the country and its people gave so much more richness to the experience and trip.
Since returning from Estonia I’ve told a least a dozen people that Estonians can complete their taxes online in about 2 minutes – and that they have cards that basically contain all their relevant medical history that they can bring with them when they see medical professionals.
True, Estonia is a country of 1.3 million as opposed to the United States’ 327.2 million, but it’s information like this that just makes me want to scream, “We can do better! We can’t just keep walking around saying we are the best! Our way or the highway is NOT WORKING!”
I digress.
Estonians also have a really deep connection to nature that I really enjoyed hearing about. At the same time – they were the creators of Skype!
ARCHITECTURE
When I told my uncle, an architect, that I was going to Estonia, he told me it’s got a ton of interesting buildings! I would have loved to visit the Arvo Part Center – situated on a peninsula in the middle of the woods – it’s an incredibly peaceful looking place.
We did stop by the Rotermann Quarter – an old industrial area that has been given knew life with modern buildings. It now houses bars, restaurants, apartments and the Museum of Estonian Architecture and is the perfect display of old and new in the middle of Tallinn.
Not only are there really cool modern buildings, but there are ancient fortifications, castles, and a Russian Orthodox cathedral that is stunningly beautiful!
FOOD
If I had to choose an emoji to describe what I looked like while researching restaurants in Tallinn, I would definitely combine the heart-eyed emoji with the drooling emoji. Every menu I looked at was speaking to me. And being there, the food did not disappoint.
Fresh, healthy ingredients and borrowing from many different cultures is what made the menus of Tallinn so exciting to me.
F-HOONE
Our first lunch was at F-Hoone, an incredibly popular spot in Telliskivi which stands for “Creative City.” Tellsikivi is a must-visit while you’re in Tallinn (more on that later).
During the day, we easily found a seat in the bright, airy, bohemian brick-centric space. Midcentury modern furniture, patterned tiles and lots of greenery instantly made me smile.
I started with Borsch because ever since Poland I can’t say no to beet soup!
I also ordered the falafel over a salad of arugula (the best salad green, if you ask me) that was so green and fresh looking that I am surprised I took this picture before digging in. (Ok, I’m not that surprised – it was begging to be photographed). There were chickpeas, quinoa, asparagus and so many herbs my brain exploded.
There were also a ton of delicious sounding flavored sodas and since it was early and we didn’t want to drink yet, I was very pleased with my decision to order a sea buckthorn lemonade while Sam went with the Öun apple lemonade with rhubarb.
SFAAR
We came here for lunch one day since it was near the Rotermann area which we were going to check out. It was a charming interior and I had one of the best soups ever! It was a fish soup with a ton of fresh herbs and it was delicious. I definitely didn’t need to also order the sweet potato lentil dish, but that was great too.
Sfaar has a good wine list and is a fusion of Italian and Nordic cuisines.
MUST PUUDEL
This is a very popular café in old town that has a really cool interior made up of different rooms with fun décor.
There are a lot of vegetarian options and on Saturday nights they play vinyl records. Super hipster.
Our meal wasn’t anything out of this world, but I got a local IPA and enjoyed the setting.
SESOON
Sesoon was our final meal in Tallinn and I was looking forward to it since it’s known as having really high quality food for a low price. We enjoyed the walk along Towers’ Square park on our way to Sesoon.
The restaurant was back near Telliskivi in an area known as Kalamaja – the hipster haven of Tallinn.
The restaurant was pretty empty since we were there for a late lunch/early dinner before heading back to the airport and while it didn’t blow us away, it was a good final meal.
KOMPRESSOR
Another popular spot in Old Town is Kompressor – where you can get giant sweet or savory pancakes. Just remember to order at the bar! There are just 29 different options – and keep in mind that they’re open relatively late with the kitchen closing at 9:45 pm and the seating area closing at 11 pm (you can even pre-order gluten free pancakes!)
KALAMAJA EXPLORING
While Old Town is certainly an awesome area to walk around, I was most looking forward to exploring Kalamaja which is the Williamsburg of Tallinn (just like Sodermalm in Stockholm or Shoreditch in London).
TELLISKIVI
Telliskivi or “Creative City” is a short walk from Old Town and is definitely worth a visit. It consists of 10 buildings which house 200 businesses including studios, creative companies, NGOs, restaurants, bars, stores, cafes and more. There’s street art to look at, events and galleries.
When we were there, I dragged us into a dark door and happened to walk into a really cool fashion exhibit by the Estonian Academy of Arts’ fashion design department. Student’s had to create dresses using only reflective materials- we wandered through the black-lit room and were in awe!
Ehe Mood: A fairtrade shop with some incredible patterns, delicious chocolates and fun socks. What more could you want?
While it wasn’t open yet during our time in Tallinn, June 2019 saw Fotografiska open in Telliskivi. This is an amazing photography museum whose original location was in Stockholm, Sweden. Not only is it a great museum, but they have really delicious restaurants with vegetable-focused menus.
Need some beer after your shopping and photography viewing? Tallinn’s first craft beer bar, Pudel, is in Telleskivi as well. They boast 14 beers and ciders on tap and a DJ on Friday and Saturday nights and Sunday during the day. I love a good Sunday Funday.
If you’re in town on a Saturday, there is a weekly flea market at Telliskivi. Check out their website for the daily event schedule and a list of restaurants and shops.
BALTI JAAMA TURG
The Baltic Station Market is like a mix of a traditional European market and New York’s Chelsea Market or London’s Borough Hall with a little flea market thrown in. There’s a mix of stalls selling fresh produce, clothing stores and eateries for pre-made meals ranging from bao to burgers to green juices.
The three-story market has over 200 vendors. The basement level has a supermarket and gym, the first floor has fish, meat, cheese, etc. and the second floor is filled with shops for antiques, clothes, crafts and more.
Unfortunately, we had just eaten when we stopped by Balti Jaama Turg, but if I’m ever back in Tallinn I would definitely plan on dedicated at least one meal there.
OLD TOWN
The Tallinn Old Town is not to be missed. Enter by walking through an old defense tower called “Fat Margaret” before exploring Old Town’s cobblestone streets, churches and pubs.
MASTER’S COURTYARD
This small courtyard filled with artisan shops is one of the most picturesque places I’ve ever seen. We loved looking through the wood and pottery shops and made sure to stop for some coffee at Chocolaterie Pierre – an old timey café filled with old furniture and sweet treats.
ST. CATHERINE’S PASSAGE
After checking out the Master’s Courtyard (and snapping an Instagram picture) head to St. Catherine’s Passage – you’ll feel like you’ve completely stepped back in time as you pass shops filled with artists using traditional methods to create things like glassware, ceramics, hats and more. We stopped for a long time to watch the glass-blowing happening at Koppel and Keerdu and were completely mesmerized by the things being created. I had no choice but to buy myself a colorful vase!
TOWN HALL SQUARE
Stop by Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) to look at Town Hall – unfortunately when we were there we had to contend with some construction – and were a few weeks too early for the Christmas markets.
SAIAKANG
Close to Town Hall Square is this small little passage way with the cutest little red shop. We took a picture here nearly every day.
TOOMPEA HILL LOOKOUT POINTS
Though we couldn’t climb the 258 stairs to the top of St. Olaf’s Church because of the time of year, we were able to find a great lookout points up Toompea Hill to look down at all of old town.
PATKULI VIEWING PLATFORM
From here, you can walk down 157 steps to Toompark by Snelli Pond.
KOHTUOTSA VEWING PLATFORM
This is known as another great view, with some art on the wall that makes for a cute photo opp!
DANISH KING’S GARDEN
Another spot up on Toompea Hill - more wall art, some creepy hooded statues, another good spot to snap a pic.
ALEXANDER NEVSKY CATHEDRAL
While you’re at the Danish King’s Garden, be sure to check out this Russian Orthodox Church – it’s absolutely beautiful.
WHERE TO DRINK IN TALLINN
HELL’S HUNT
Many people refer to this Old Town pub as the first pub in Estonia. Obviously, we had to stop by for a drink!
BREWDOG
When we walked over to Rotterman Quarter to check out the modern architecture, we enjoyed a few beers at BrewDog – a chain found throughout the world in places like Berlin, Budapest and Barcelona. They always have a good vibe.
It was in the BrewDog bathroom that I found a sticker for the Mikkeller Run Club – something I’ve since checked out in NYC!
NOKU
Noku is a hidden bar that we had read about – you need to go through the red and blue door at 6 Pikk Street known as a hang out for artists and musicians with cheap food. Unfortunately, like many places we encountered during our trip – it was basically empty while we were there.
PORGU
Our last night we stumbled into this little basement pub and had a good time playing cards. There’s also a foosball table!
WINE NOT?
Ever since my trip to Lisbon with my mom, I order Portuguese wine whenever I see it on the menu. So I was super excited to find a wine bar in Tallinn that serves and sells Portuguese wine and tapas! It’s super small and cozy with great service and I really enjoyed it!
RUN
I had to get out for a run one morning, since it’s for sure the best way to sightsee! I ran in the direction of an area we hadn’t been yet, making my way to Kadriorg Park which was absolutely gorgeous and worth a visit. Run by Kadriorg Palace and check out the Japanese Garden.
I was absolutely charmed my Tallinn, and anyone that finds themselves in Helsinki should absolutely take the ferry over. (Just be warned – the ferry can get LIT if you take it at night! Our ride featured the vocal stylings of the Teflon Brothers and some action from serious cougars).
I highly recommend that you stay more than one day in Tallinn, though – there is a ton to see (and eat, and drink). It’s a very unique place and I loved learning about their creative, nature-loving culture.
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