Before I jump into my Croatia trip recap - which tends to be very long and very detailed - I’m going to post the general itinerary. A 50,000 day-by-day journal isn’t everyone’s cup of tea.
For my friends and I, Croatia in the off-season was a dream. The places that are overflowing with tourists in July and August we had almost entirely to ourselves. That being said - if you’re looking to go enjoy Croatia’s beaches, swim in the blue waters, and party with the yacht week clientele - April is probably going to be a bit of a bummer for you.
Two Nights in Dubrovnik
Accommodations: Old Town Airbnb
Two bedroom, three bed, one bath. The highlight of this Airbnb was the fact that it was located right in Old Town - in fact, we had to walk up the famous Game of Thrones “Shame” stairs to get to our Airbnb!
Dubrovnik Must Do’s:
Old Town Walking Tour
We booked a historic walking tour through Viator, but there is also a huge selection of Game of Thrones specific tours.
Walk the City Walls
This was one of the coolest things I have ever done. It’s mind blowing to think that these walls have been standing since the 13th Century. This is one of the things that probably wouldn’t have been as enjoyable in July/August.
A ticket to walk the city walls costs 250 kuna (around $35 USD). Check this website for hours. The main entrance to the walls is at Pile Gate - but there are also entrances at Ploce gate and St. John’s Fortress. Everyone must walk in one direction on the walls.
Picnic of Your Dreams!
We ordered a picnic with Piknic Dubrovnik and it was one of the most special travel experiences I’ve had. Alex, the creator & founder, was absolutely amazing to work with. We decided last minute to change the day of our picnic - because the bora (crazy Croatian winds off of the Adriatic) were not cooperating. Alex was flexible and in fact, willing to let us cancel up until the morning of. I’ll go in to more detail in my day-by-day recap of the trip - but trust me, you’ll want to book one of these!
Holy Burek!
This may seem like an odd food recommendation - but these were the perfect affordable lunch to grab while walking around Old Town. The line outside and the intoxicating smell lured us in and we were very happy about it.
Hole in the Wall Bars
These cliffside bars would definitely be a scene in the summertime (and a good spot for a swim), but we still enjoyed their views and a solitary sunset. Buza Bar is likely the most well-known (and most Instagrammed) but check out Beach Bar Dodo too!
Hike Mt. Srd
We were shocked to find that this hike to overlook the city was mercifully absent of the crazy winds we had been experiencing in the Old Town. Granted, once we got to the very top lookout, we almost blew away, but the rest of the 3.1 miles was the perfect bit of exercise and the views were amazing for just a 3.1 mile out and back trail.
Two Nights on Mljet Island
Transportation: Krilo Ferry
Make sure you know where your ferry is going - Mljet has multiple ferry ports - Pomena and Polace are closest to the National Park while the Sobra ferry port allows you to drive on cars but is further east of the National Park.
Accommodation: Guesthouse Matana Pomena
Two bedroom, two bath apartment less than a 5 minute walk off of the ferry. It was a good sign that almost everyone that got off the ferry was checking into the same place as us! Since we were there in the off season and the market wasn’t open, we opted for the breakfast provided by the family who owns the guesthouses. It was about 30 kuna per person .
Mljet Must-Do’s:
Rent Bikes
This was by far the best way to get around the island. We were staying in Pomena - but there are a number of other small towns around the island. It’s such a stunning bike ride and any cyclist will find what they’re looking for - whether it’s the well-paved, flat path around the lakes, mountain biking trails, or hilly roads to climb. Our host arranged our bikes for us - but there are places all over where you can rent bikes.
Hike to Mt. Montokuc
The highest viewpoint in the park - it will feel like complete inception. You’re on an island, but then there are lakes, with other islands in them - it’s a stunning 360 degree view and worth the uphill climb.
Visit the Islet of St. Mary for Lunch
Your National Park entry ticket gives you one round-trip ride on the ferry to St. Mary where you can explore an old monastery and enjoy lunch with hypnotizing views. The ferry schedules are posted around the park - but pro tip - from the mainland to the west of the island - looking at Restaurant Melita - there’s a flag. Wave that flag, and restaurant staff will give you a personal boat ride over. No ferry schedule needed!
Eat the Freshest Seafood While Watching the Sunset
Granted, there were only two restaurant options available to us when we stayed in Pomena in April, but both nights we ate at Konoba Nine we thoroughly enjoyed. Order the fried calamari. And try a shot of rakija. Try to time your dinner with the sunset - because the views are absolutely unreal.
Two Nights in Split
Transportation: Krilo Ferry
Very easy and affordable ferry from Mljet to Split.
Accommodation: this fun & convenient airbnb
Two bedroom, one bath apartment about a 10 minute walk off of the ferry. Very close to everything we wanted/needed to do in Split including picking up our rental car from around the corner!
SPLIT Must-Do’s:
TAKE A DAY TRIP TO THE CETINA RIVER
We booked this absolutely incredible (and insane) full day tour with Iris Adventures that had us sliding and rappelling our way through the Cetina River gorge. The area, about an hour outside of the city, is absolutely beautiful.
TRY A LOCAL BEER FROM little beer shop
It just so happened that this beer shop I had written down was right around the corner from our Airbnb! The man working was really nice and gave us a bunch of local beers to try.
Get Bagels from Brooklyn Bagel Co.
I know, you probably think I’ve lost it. But honestly - this was the best bacon egg and cheese I’ve ever had outside of NY!
MORE TIME?
I think we would all agree that one more day in Split would have been nice - we didn’t have much time to explore the Old Town streets or take a walking tour which I think we all would have enjoyed!
The National Parks & A Night in Slunj
TRANSPORTATION: CAR RENTAL
We were lucky that my friend knows how to drive stick-shift and therefore renting a car in Croatia was pretty affordable. It gave us the opportunity to adventure off the beat path a bit on our route from Split to the capital city of Zagreb - stopping at Krka National Park, Bibich Winery, Slunj and Plitvice National Park.
ACCOMMODATION: THIS BEAUTIFUL AIRBNB CABIN
Must Do’s:
KRKA NATIONAL PARK
We rented a car in Split and stopped at Krka on our way to our next destination, but Split is the perfect city for a day trip to Krka (there are also tours you can book if you don’t want to rent a car!) It’s a popular destination, but thanks to a mix of a bad forecast and it being mid-week during the off-season, we really lucked out and there was barely anyone there.
You can pre-book tickets online, though it definitely wasn’t necessary when we went. Note that there are different entrances to the park - the closest en route from Split are Skradin and Lozovac.
BIBICH WINERY
If you have a car and are able to make it to BIBICh - you won’t regret it! This ended up being one of my favorite parts of the trip. Again, we found ourselves essentially alone and therefore, had a private wine tasting experience with the incredibly lovely staff. The wine was great, we learned a ton, and the sandwich was the best thing I ate on the entire trip. No debate. You can make reservations on their website!
PLITVICE LAKES NATIONAL PARK
We based ourselves out of Slunj, a small town extremely close to Plitvice Lakes National Park - so we could get up and out to to the park. Plitvice is a much larger park than Krka, and in our experience, much more crowded. The nice think about Plitvice is that there’s the ability to get off the beaten path a bit - though you’ll be fighting the crowds anytime you get up close and personal with the waterfalls. If you want to spend a full day walking - Plitvice has you covered. We walked a solid 10 miles during our visit. Again - there are multiple entrances so if you’re purchasing in advance, make sure you know which one you’re looking for!
MORE TIME?
People also recommend spending some time in the town of Šibenik - about 15 minutes outside of Krka National Park.
Two Nights in Zagreb
TRANSPORTATION: CAR RENTAL
When we had visited Krka, stayed a night in the sleepy town of Slunj and explored Plitvice Lakes - it was time to trade trees for city streets as we headed to our final destination - the capital city of Zagreb. Upon arrival we ditched the rental car - Zagreb is a very walking friendly city.
ACCOMMODATION: Zagreb 17 Apartment & Rooms
Cannot recommend this spot more highly. The owner was SO enthusiastic about making sure we had the best time in Zagreb - and the rooms were really nice and so centrally located! Just note that payment is cash only.
ZAGREB MUST DO’S:
free historic walking tour
We learned so much during our walking tour of Zagreb - did you know the tie originated in Croatia as part of their military uniform (cravat stems from Croat!). We got to see the canon go off at Lotrscak Tower, and our guide gave us so many recommendations for places to eat and drink around town. And it was all free! They do ask that you register in advance. And don’t forget to tip your tour guide!
bar street
Ok, it’s actually called Ivana Tkalčića Street but even the locals refer to this pedestrian-only street filled with restaurants, bars and cafes as “bar street.” No trip to Zagreb is complete without at least a few beverages sitting out on the bar street.
walk the GREEN HORSESHOE
7 parks and squares make up Lenuc’s Green Horseshoe which you should definitely walk through. Another green space worthy of a visit is Park Ribnjak behind the Zagreb Cathedral.
mix with fellow travels at swanky monkey garden
This bar is attached to the The Swanky Mint Hostel - and it was BUMPIN’! It was a really cool space with friendly people and good vibes.
eat at la struk
Wow - if you’re going to eat one thing in Zagreb, it should be this cheese-y dish called strukli which La Struk specializes in. In fact, it’s all that they serve, which is how you know it’s going to be good! Strukli is kinda of like lasagna, but with a dough that’s a bit softer and chewier than pasta. I’m doing a bad job of explaining it - but go get it when you’re in Zagreb. Strukli takes 20 minutes to prepare*
MUSEUM OF BROKEN RELATIONSHIPS
Everyone said to go here, and I think Callie and I were a little skeptical at first. But it really is worth a visit! I loved reading about the various objects collected by the museum - some were heartbreaking, some were funny, some were bizarre.
Croatia was an incredible trip - the people were so welcoming and the country is absolutely stunning - with fascinating history. Have any questions or recommendations for readers? Drop a comment below :)
